The Tannery

Yusuf then took us a little off the beaten track tourist wise and we arrived in a side street having passed a rather large rubbish point. We weaved through small alley ways with raw sewage trickling into open sewers. We made our way through this on stepping stone arrangements. All the while I was wondering which of us would be the first to trip and fall down. Why my doctor’s surgery thought I wouldn’t need a cholera vaccination I’ll never know. I kind of regretted agreeing with them at this moment in time. Luckily, most of the sewers seemed choked with plastic bags and bottles, so God alone knows how this archaic system would cope in the spring rains expected in April. After a few minutes we came to a clearing that showed various stages of curing leather for all sorts of purposes. There was goat skin, crocodile skin, snake skin and other animal skin too! The smell was appalling and you could see pits of different substances that are part of the tanning process. You might want to research how leather is made especially in days gone by, because I can assure you, not much has changed here since biblical times. In amongst this squalid and really interesting place were children playing and animals looking at us quite bemused. If only they knew!

After that we went further into the city and came across a little oasis in the chaos called Kano Zoo. It is a little run down but only 100 Naira to get in (about 40p!). We spent a lovely hour or more looking at the hippo, giraffes, monkeys and birds. However one thing I’m not sure about... There was a baby elephant all by itself, apparently its mother had died. It wasn’t more than 2 – 3years in age, but to me it looked very lonely. Can some of you research whether it needs to be with other elephants? If so then I think we should write to the zoo to see if they can find him a friend to stay with him. We might even write to the Emir for his suggestions too?  I’ve taken a bit of film using the flip camera and will try to upload it when we visit the British Council next. They have better internet connections than I have where I’m staying. When British people work abroad, we can register with our Government so they know where we are. They then send us an e-mail to say if ever we need any help, we can just contact them. So we might use their computers when we next visit.

Meanwhile back on the compound where we are staying...

The oldest boys who are the only ones back at school because of impending exams: are very polite and respectful. They are a bit shy, but one class monitor will be interviewing us for the school news magazine. The water was back on today (hooray!) so no need to get the ever obliging Mr Sani to collect it for us from a solar pumped water tank in his three-wheeled Indian Taxi.

Indigo Dye Pits

We had heard of the famous Indigo Dye Pits near Kofa Mati Gate and Sani had got out of the van to negotiate with a guide how much it would cost. The pits are among the oldest in whole of Africa! Whilst waiting, we received a message to come in across a very busy road. We see minor accidents every time we go into the city. Having navigated ourselves across the busy road, we found Sani in negotiation with someone else. We had been unknowingly lured out of the mini-van by another guide who wanted our custom. After a minor spat we listened to Yusuf our guide who told us about the process of dying cloth deep blue!

Indigo is very similar to henna and is grown and processed in the same way. Water, ash, potassium and indigo plant is put into a calabash and mixed in the correct quantities. Then put into a well about 6 metres deep and left to ferment, mixed with a giant pole. The ash adds brightness to the colour, the potassium fixes the dye to the material and the indigo colours it blue.

After a suitable amount of time, the cloth is dipped, if left in too little it comes out greenish so it is important to get the timing right. The cloth is lifted regularly for the oxygen in the air to help the process. Tie dye patterns are often knotted in with string before the dying process starts.

When we take a picture of someone at work, they get offended unless you offer them a little money called ‘dash!’

Yusuf was very informative and then showed us how the cloth is ironed. Strong armed men wield large wooden mallets and beat the cloth on split logs. This was followed by the inevitable hard sell as white people are regarded as being very rich by comparison to the workers in the dye pits. I bought some cloth with tie dye patterns which I will bring back to school. Mrs Clements will be thrilled with yet another artefact for our collection. We kept Yusuf with us for the next part of our trip around the city when we visited a tannery...

Ancient & Modern

Ancient and Modern

The old city walls date back to the year 1053 and are several metres thick and the same in height. There is a ditch on the outside which makes them look more impressive and far more difficult to invade. They have lasted over a thousand years of weathering and though not intact can still be seen along much of their original length and later extended to 25 km in length. The German Government have helped rebuilding some of the walls. They are made from clay mixed with straw.

There were originally 15 gates called ‘Kofars’ that lead in and out of the old city. These have long gone but have been replaced with modern equivalents. When the British Army invaded in 1903, their canons were no match for the ancient metal panelled doors. Some of the old gate doors can be seen at the Gidan Makama Museum. This is a 15^th Century house that is now an ancient monument and was originally the Emir’s Palace before the new one was built. In the museum we saw shields made from skin. They might have originally been made using elephant’s ears! Bows and arrows were the weapon of choice followed by the spear, then sword or dagger.

The original kingdom was invaded by Jihadists who defeated the king and set up a new ruler called an Emir. The current Emir lives in his palace and he is nearly 80 years old and is called Emir Alhaji Ado Bayero. Nigeria became independent in 1960.

Around and about



Plastic bags are a blight on the environment and can be seen for miles in all directions. There is no need for a refuse collection because everything is recycled. Card and paper can be used for many things and can be burnt as fuel. Plastic bottles are rare but are used again and again either with different contents or adapted for storage. Palm oil is sold in small quantities from the street traders, so children are often seen buying it in small amounts from bigger plastic drums. As refuse tends to be dumped in a particular area: goats, sheep, cattle, chickens and rats can often be found pouring over the site and eating anything edible - not necessarily food! Tin cans are cut neatly or beaten flat and used as makeshift tools, containers or toys. All that remains is the plastic bag. 







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 These are some of the teachers' houses at Dawakin Tofa where we are staying. It is very quiet during the day as we rarely see the teachers' wives who stay inside, engaged in chores.

A small flock of sheep that roam the school grounds.



A lesson in language

19th January 2011

I'm struggling with the add-hoc internet arrangements to upload pictures but will try again later. In the meantime it's about time we had our first language lesson in 'Hausa'.
Ina kwana means 'Good Morning'
Ina Wuni means 'Good afternoon' & 'Good evening'
Na gode means 'Thank you'
Faranta Zuciya means 'Please'
and... Ina bayin ku? means 'Where is the toilet?'

I will be testing you all later...

Asking where the toilet can be located is important in our culture because of our habits. However here in Kano you will find people going to the loo by the side of the road as there is no community sewage system. Buildings that are large or small developments like a school will have their own local sewage system. Travelling by bus along the road, it is hard not to notice all that is going on, but I think it is rude to stare. There is no other way it can be organised until the country grows in wealth. If we were to go back in time in our country's history, people would have been doing what the poorer people do here!

Market Day

Friday 14th Jan.
We are a couple of miles from the main road and will have to walk that before we get a taxi bike or taxi if we need to get around. Sani, a teacher at the college where we are staying has laid on the college bus for us to get some provisions. In the supermarket, men and women went to different kiosks to pay.
We have no electricity or water, apart from collecting it by bucket from a stand pipe. My phone does not work and battery life is ebbing away. We were able to get a dongle but need to find a longer term solution to our energy needs.
Sub-Saharan winds batter the college campus in the mornings. Rats, goats, guinea fowl and termite hills abound. There are some beautiful small finch birds and lots of lizards.
We bought pans and sheets but couldn't afford blankets just yet. We've acquired a gas burner for heating water for washing and drinking once it's been filtered. I live next door but one to my two colleague heads. The houses are spacious and sparsely furnished. We just about survived the choking city to get to bed by 10pm. Slept in clothes but with a sheet and makeshift pillow. I was much warmer last night!

Kano or bust

Stating a time in Nigeria to meet or be picked up is a little loose around the edges. Having checked out of the Crystal Palace Hotel at 9am we were picked up just before midday to go to the VSO Office where we met our employer from National Youth Service Corps named Mahadi, collected our allowance of N36,000(around £144 to last a month...) and left. However it took us a long while to find the way out of the city as many roads were close due to election rallies. There are few signposts anyway. After nearly seven hours, we arrived at the outskirts of Kano and suffered a flat tyre! Seeing three white people standing idle but for chatting on the central reservation(!) caused a little stir. Another bus was called to retrieve us and onwards we went. Kano was completely overwhelming. Cars were actually pushing their way around junctions with pedestrians and motor bikes weaving in and out under a thick layer of dense blue exhaust fumes. A further two hours later and out of the city we arived at the boys college where we will be staying. In pitch darkness the principal welcomed us by torchlight. I went to sleep in my clothes on a bare mattress as we will have to provide our own bits and bobs for every day living. The only torch to hand was Shay Brennan's wind-up duck! The stars were amazing...

Nassarawa

Wednesday 12th Jan.
We travelled to Lafia in Nassarawa State to meet Ingrid who is another volunteer working in Nigeria from Holland. I was originally intended to work here also. However, Nigerians take hosting very seriously and there was not any suitable accommodation for me, hence the swap to Kano.
The road out of Abuja left me open-mouthed as we finally saw the incredible poverty of many of the people. We passed a market with literally hundreds of thousands of people as far as the eye could see all buying and selling. Absolute proof if any were needed that even as a child, if you are not out early, working, collecting wood or trading in some goods or services, there would be nobody else to care for you.
Some parts of the road were treacherous and had disappeared completely as overly burdened trucks slowly drove their way to the next destination.
Arriving in Lafia, we again met some dignitaries and had lunch with Ingrid. It was traditional food. Tuo(?) a maize dough which you dip into the accompanying delicious spicey fish soup. I had to wash my right hand carefully at table because we ate with our fingers. It was a little messy! Ingrid told us of the programmes she was hoping to establish. We had drinks with Mr Peter her boss who gave us cooked chicken to take away with us. this was very generous. Marianne had the claw of the chicken decoratively placed in its beak!

NYSC - Abuja

Tuesday 11th Jan. VSO had organised for the three of us to visit NYSC (National Youth Service Corps)Headquarters. We had to pass armed guards to get into the building. We met the Director and her deputy with their teams. Formal introductions were made and Christian prayers said before the meeting started. As the meeting went on the formality started to ease and it was obvious that we were in the company of very committed people who want to aid any improvement that can be made to the education system.
We finished with Muslim prayers and were generously given a packed lunch to take away with us. A piece of chicken, some vegetables in pastry, water and a fruit juice.

In Abuja

Frenetic at Terminal 5 Heathrow because baggage allowance unclear. Consequently, the flight was delayed because of excess hand luggage. Arrived around 6 am and the roads were choked with cars and bikes as people tried to enter the city centre to go to work. Many street vendors were walking in and out of the traffic trying to sell their wares. Everything from chewing gum to toilet brushes!
Picked up by Matthew at the airport and taken to our hotel and on to the VSO office. Abuja is developing very quickly with some spectacular new buildings.